This is a blog post I wrote on my old blog way back in 2017. I’m reposting it here for easy reference. 🙂

Hello! For those of you that follow me on instagram, you’ll know that I recently shared an easy and quick method to get perfectly pieced patchwork squares on my instagram stories. The instagram stories are only available for 24 hours before disappearing and I’ve had so many questions, comments, and messages about the method that I decided to write a blog post for those that missed the instagram stories I posted.

As a disclaimer: I did not invent this method. I first heard about it years ago. I am sure there are a number of other tutorials and videos out there describing this process, but after sharing how I used fusible interfacing to quickly get perfectly pieced squares on instagram, I wanted to document the method that I used in the hopes that it would help someone out. 🙂

To start out, you’ll need to figure out how big of a piece of interfacing to use. For example, if you are wanting to create a 16″ x 16″ pillow cover out of 2.5″ x 2.5″ squares (the squares will finish at 2″ x 2″ after 1/4″ seam on each side), then you know you’ll need an 8 x 8 grid of squares (8 x 2″ finished=16″ finished). So, the unfinished size will be 8 x 2.5″ unfinished = 20″ unfinished and you’ll want a 20″ x 20″ piece of interfacing. Is that clear as mud? Haha. If the math isn’t your favorite, you can always experiment a little until you feel a little more comfortable with the method. Also, it’s a great idea to make the finished panel a little larger than you think you might need and then you can always trim it to size after. 🙂

Below, you’ll see my piece of fusible interfacing and the squares that I’m using. I decided to make a 5 x 5 grid of 2″ x 2″ squares. This means the squares will finish at 1.5″ x 1.5″ each and my entire finished panel will be 7.5″ x 7.5″ since 1.5″ x 5 = 7.5″.

The fusible interfacing I’m using is by TenSisters Handicraft and comes pre-printed with grids on it (neat, huh?). I’ve heard from others who have drawn their own grid lines on a generic lightweight fusible interfacing. I haven’t personally done this, but if you have tried it and have any tips or tricks, leave a comment letting us know. If you are drawing your own grid lines, remember to make them the same size as your cut squares. The grid lines in my pre-printed interfacing are 2″ x 2″, which is why I’m using 2″ squares.

You’ll want the textured, bumpy side of the fusible interfacing to be face up then you can start placing your cut squares right side up inside the grid lines. The squares do not have to perfectly placed–just try to get them lined up straight and any wonkiness will work itself out when you add in the seams.

After placing all the squares where you want them, it’s time to iron them in place! Gently set the iron on top of the squares for a few seconds and slowly work your way through the panel. You want to make sure to not the slide the iron across the panel because it might shift the squares before they are completely fused to the interfacing. Pick up the iron and gently set it down, moving around the panel until all the squares are firmly attached to the interfacing.

When the squares are attached properly, you can pick up and move the panel–they won’t be going anywhere!

Now we’ll sew the seams to make our panel into a patchwork piece. Fold over the first column so the crease is right on the grid line. Sew a seam down the entire column 1/4″ away from the crease.

Repeat with the remaining columns, folding each one over at the crease and sewing a 1/4″ seam down the entire column.

When all the columns are sewn, it looks a little goofy and should be quite a bit narrower.

Next, turn the panel over so you’re looking at all the seams on the back. Clip the interfacing at the intersection of each of the grid lines. Clip right to, but not through the sewn lines. Clipping these intersections will allow you to press the seams in opposite directions to avoid huge, bulky seams.

After all the intersections are clipped, iron each row in opposite directions. Again, this will help reduce bulk at the seams.

Now it’s time to sew the rows! Just as you did with the columns, fold over the first row at the grid line and sew a line 1/4″ away from the crease. As you sew, check to make sure that the seams you pressed in the last step are laying in opposite directions so they nest perfectly.

Continue with the other rows until all the rows are sewn.

Press the newly sewn seams all in the same direction.

Turn the panel over and press from the front to help flatten out the seams a little more. The interfacing does add a little bulk and stiffness, but if you’re using the panel as a pillow cover or for a pouch, the stiffness can be nice. I’ve heard from others who have used this method for an actual quilt and they didn’t mind the extra weight.

This method definitely saves time and the hassle of trying to remember which tiny square goes where, but I think the biggest benefit is the precise seams! I could never in a million years get all of my seams to match up so well doing it the traditional way! 😉

Thanks for following along and please let me know if you have any other tips or questions in the comments below.

Happy Sewing!

-Kristina

If you’ve been searching for the perfect desk to upgrade your home or office setup, chances are you’ve come across UPLIFT height-adjustable desks. Known for their superior quality, durability, customization options, and ergonomic benefits, these highly rated desks are a popular choice for quilters, office professionals, gamers, and remote workers alike. I’ve been using UPLIFT desks at a quilt retreat center that I’ve been attending since 2018, and after all those years, the desks not only still work flawlessly, but they look brand new. So when I decided to get an adjustable desk to help out my posture and back pain issues (a lot of time hunched over a sewing machine will do that to you!), I knew I wanted to go with an UPLIFT desk.

I purchased my first UPLIFT desk in December 2024 and by the end of January, I was already wanting to add another desk to my studio space. UPLIFT generously offered to send me a second desk, and while I generally don’t collaborate with companies, I do like to recommend superior products that I already love and use myself. I would like to note that while I received my second desk from UPLIFT at no charge, I am not getting paid to write this blog post or talk about them on social media. This blog post was completely my idea so I could share about the desk options I chose and would recommend to others, especially those wanting a standing desk in the sewing and crafting world.

UPLIFT has an almost overwhelming amount of options for customizing your desk, so I thought I’d quickly share some of the options that I got for a sewing workspace, and detail which ones I’d absolutely get again.

UPLIFT Desk has a variety of desktop styles and materials. I wanted a natural material that was reasonably priced and looked nice and bright in my sewing studio, so I opted for the Bamboo 1″ desktop. I also love the look of the Birch wood option and keep thinking that one day I might upgrade my desktop to the Birch.

Just like desktop materials, there are a variety of desktop sizes available. For a sewing or crafting workspace, I would absolutely recommend getting the 30″ deep desktop (as opposed to 24″). Having the extra deep desk is super useful when wrangling a quilt or large sewing project and the deeper tables are also easier to fit cutting mats on. Along with 30″ deep, the first desk I purchased was 48″ wide. It perfectly matched the width of my cutting table, but after assembling the desk and putting my sewing machine on it, I wished I would have purchased the 60″ wide desk instead (you can never have enough sewing table space!). So when picking out the dimensions for my second desk, I stuck with the 30″ deep, but got the wider 60″ desk. It is still extremely sturdy (no wiggling or vibrating while sewing – yay!), but gives me an extra foot of surface area for my projects.

I’ll quickly go over a few other upgrades that I chose for my first table (and liked so much that I got again for my second table).

Power Outlets with USB charging options on the surface of the desk. I absolutely LOVE having charging options right on the desktop! Such a smart option and I’d recommend that upgrade to anyone and everyone (but especially to crafters who have sewing machines, irons, extra lights, plus phones and iPads to charge).

Advanced Keypad for adjusting the table height. I wasn’t so sure about this option, but am really glad I got it for both of my desks. The regular keypad works just fine (that’s what the tables at the retreat center that I go to have), but being able to program specific heights is so helpful! I can have a height for my chair, stool, and for standing and don’t have to fiddle around with the up and down arrows every time I switch from sitting to standing.

Wheels for easily moving the desk around. Even though I didn’t anticipate needing to move my desks around much, I have already rearranged them 3 different times and the wheels have been invaluable and I can easily slide them around on the carpet in my sewing space.

The Bamboo Drawer. One drawback to adjustable height desks is that they usually don’t have any storage space. This cute little add-on drawer has really helped me keep objects off the desktop and stay organized. Each of my UPLIFT desks has a drawer and I keep sewing supplies in one and office supplies in the other.

There are numerous other options you can get for your UPLIFT desk, but these have been my favorite customizations. And even without any of the additional options, just being able to quickly move from sitting to standing has been the greatest benefit for me. My posture has improved, back and shoulder pain has decreased, and I feel more active while I’m in my sewing studio.

Any questions about getting an UPLIFT desk? I’d love to help! Ask in the comments, or email me and I’d love to share more of my experience.

-Kristina

Meet the Juliet Pouch! With a unique vinyl window that looks way more complicated than it is, this pouch is sure to impress!

The Juliet Pouch Pattern includes two different sizes of quilted zipper pouches, three different printable templates for the cutout window shape, and even bonus instructions for the cutest added ruffle! With all of those options, you’ll have a hard time making just one.

The Juliet Pouch pattern has clear, easy to follow instructions, full color diagrams, and is available as a digital download so you can get sewing right away. You can find the Juliet pattern in my shop HERE.

I get asked all the time about where to find specific supplies, so I put together a list of items that I have personally purchased and used for sewing zipper pouches like the Juliet Pouch. Many of the products are linked to Amazon, because that’s an easy source for me to link and for a lot of people to purchase items from. Please feel free to check out other options, too, as you can certainly find the products elsewhere.

Supply Recommendations:

Zippers:

For the Juliet Pouch, I recommend a nylon zipper in sizes #3, #4.5, or #5 (sizes #4.5 and #5 are a bit larger than the standard #3 size). A nylon zipper is preferable over a metal zipper, as you can sew right over the nylon (plastic) zipper teeth without breaking a needle. My favorite brand of zippers is YKK, as they are inexpensive and a great quality. YKK zippers come in a variety of lengths, but they can always be cut down to size, so I prefer to purchase longer lengths in a variety of colors to keep on hand then I can cut them down to fit whatever project I am currently working on. I also really like the By Annie and Sallie Tomato zippers by the yard. When you purchase a zipper by the yard, it comes in a long coil so you can cut the zipper to size then attach a zipper pull. This is a really efficient way to use zippers, as you cut off the exact amount you need for the project.

YKK Zippers on Amazon and the Etsy shop ZipIt
Sallie Tomato zipper by the yard Size #3 or #5 on Amazon and Missouri Star Quilt Co
By Annie Zippers on Amazon and Missouri Star Quilt Co

Quilting material:

I prefer using Soft and Stable in between my layers as I quilt. Soft and Stable is a foam stabilizer that gives more structure and protection than a regular batting. There are other foam stabilizers (like Pellon Flex Foam or Bosal) that also work well–just make sure you are getting a big enough piece for your project. You can also use regular batting like Warm and Natural or Hobbs Heirloom batting (these pouches are GREAT for using up batting scraps left over from quilts!).

Soft and Stable: Amazon
Pellon Flex Foam: Amazon. (Pellon Flex Foam comes in 20″ width, so make sure it’s big enough for your project! Also, Pellon Flex Foam has fusible options–I prefer the non-fusible versions, but the fusible work well, too).

Vinyl

For the vinyl, I recommend getting between 12 and 16 gauge (the smaller the number, the thinner the vinyl). If you have a powerful machine, you can try 20 gauge vinyl, but be aware that the thicker the vinyl, the bulkier the seams will be.

By Annie Vinyl: Etsy link. My favorite clear vinyl is By Annie brand. It comes on a roll and is a great thickness (16 gauge). I’ve had the best luck finding it at quilt shops or on Etsy. You can usually find it on Amazon, too (this link has it in stock at the time of this blog being posted). You can also frequently find clear vinyl at big box stores (it’s usually back on the long rolls by the upholstery fabric).

Other Sewing Supplies:

Hera Marker for marking straight quilting lines: Amazon
Wonder Binding Clips. (I use these ALL the time to hold things in place while I sew): Amazon
Odif 505 Basting Spray: my preferred method for basting small projects like zipper pouches. Amazon link HERE.

Please let me know if you have any other requests for supply recommendations. You can always look at my Amazon Favorites page HERE for items that I have purchased and use regularly.

Happy sewing!

Kristina

Welcome to Day 5 of the Foxboro Pouch Sew Along!

Welcome to Day 4 of the Foxboro Pouch Sew Along!

Today’s assignment is to close up our pouches (with Zipper Tabs inserted!) and then add the End Bindings.

Before sewing up the ends of the pouch, make sure the panel is inside out, and fold the Zipper Tabs and insert them right where the pin/center mark and zipper teeth line up. The folded edge of the Zipper Tabs need to go in first, with the raw edges facing out of the ends of the pouch. I like to use binding clips (Wonder Clips) to hold everything in place while I sew the pouch ends closed. You can see in the photo below a tiny black mark (my center point I marked with an erasable Frixion pen). The mark lines up perfectly with the Zipper Tab and the zipper teeth, meaning they’re all centered correctly.

For the End Bindings, open up one End Binding and place the raw edge, right sides together, on the end of the panel. Sew with a ¼” seam (this seam will be just to the outside of the fold line).

Those are my tips for today! You can also find the video that goes along with Day 4 of the sew along on my instagram account HERE.

Links for products from today’s post:
Juki TL2000 Sewing Machine: click HERE
Organ 90/14 needles: click HERE
Wonder Clips: click HERE

Thanks for sewing along!

Kristina

Welcome to the Foxboro Pouch Sew Along Day 3!

ZipIt Etsy shop (they have such a good variety of YKK zippers, both size #3 and larger size #4.5 zippers). Click HERE
By Annie Zippers by the yard (size #4.5): click HERE
Sallie Tomato Zippers by the yard (both size #3 and #5): click HERE
Zipper Valley: click HERE
Zippers that look metal (gold, rose gold, gunmetal, etc.) buy are nylon (plastic teeth). Click HERE

Thanks for sewing along!

Kristina

Welcome to the Foxboro Pouch Sew Along Day 2

Today, we have a super simple assignment: preparing the Binding strips and Zipper Tabs. There are two types of bindings that you make in the Foxboro Pouch pattern. The Zipper Bindings are very straightforward (just press in half the long way). This method is called “double fold binding,” as it results in two layers of fabric covering the raw edge that you are binding. This method is a bit simpler to sew, and is a bit more durable, but does result in thicker seams that some machines might have a hard time sewing.

The End Bindings and Boxy Corner Bindings are made a bit different to lessen the bulk in the last few seams of the pouch. This will particularly help if your machine isn’t as powerful and struggles with thick seams. This method results in a “single fold binding” since there is just one layer of fabric covering the very edge that you are binding. Having just one layer on the edge results in a less durable binding, but for the inside of a pouch it will hold up just fine!

Note: the terms “single fold binding” and “double fold binding” refer to how many layers of fabric are covering the raw edge that you are binding. So although the “single fold binding” is prepared by folding and pressing more than once, there is only one layer of fabric covering the very edge of the surface we’re binding. Likewise, for a “double fold binding”, it is only pressed once, but there are two layers of fabric covering the raw edge of the surface we’re binding. The naming convention is a little confusing at first, but makes sense when you know what the name is describing. 🙂 There are also single and double fold bias tapes (often found pre-made in packages at big box stores and used for garment sewing), and from what I can tell, the nomenclature for bias tapes is completely different. No wonder we’re all so confused about single vs double fold! Haha!

For the Zipper Tabs, follow the pressing directions then top stitch along both long sides of the fabric strip. Trim the strip into two pieces with the dimensions given. I like to pick the sections with my best top-stitching efforts and trim away the rest.

In the photo below, I have the small Zipper Tabs at the top, with the Zipper Bindings underneath, next are the End Bindings, and finally the Boxy Corner Bindings. These bindings are for the Large size Foxboro Pouch, so hopefully it will give you a good idea of the relative size that they should be.

Those are my tips for today! You can find the video that goes along with Day 2 of the sew along on my Instagram HERE.

Links for products from today’s tips:

Oliso Iron: click HERE
Wool Pressing Mat (I’ve used three different brands of wool pressing mats and they’ve all worked great! If you’re looking for one, I’d suggest finding a brand that has the size you want and then checking reviews). Here’s a link to one that I own: click HERE
Olfa Rotary Cutter: click HERE
Olfa Ruler: click HERE
Juki TL2000 Sewing Machine: click HERE
Organ 90/14 needles: click HERE

Thanks for following along!

Kristina

Welcome to Day 1 of the Foxboro Pouch Sew Along!

I’m so excited that you want to make the Foxboro Pouch with me! I originally posted these Sew Along tips and tricks in January 2025 in conjunction with a Sew Along I hosted. I’m posting the daily assignments and bonus tips here to my blog for those who didn’t get a chance to join the Sew Along. You can find the Foxboro Pouch pattern HERE and follow along with the Sew Along Blog posts to make your own!

The assignment for the Foxboro Pouch Sew Along Day 1 is to cut everything out, then baste and quilt the Main and Lining fabric. Cutting everything out is pretty self explanatory, but I did want to mention a couple things. First, all of the Accent Fabric pieces can be cut from one square of fabric (as explained in the Cutting Instructions), but feel free to mix in other prints if you desire! You are definitely not required to keep to one print for all of the Accent pieces. Second, if you are using a directional fabric for your Main print, turn to page 10 for instructions on how to get your print facing the right direction (remember, it might take more fabric than a 10″ or 12″ square if you have directional fabric).

One other note before we start: Whenever I’m quilting fabric for a bag, I almost always start off with a bigger size than necessary, then trim to size after quilting. The process of quilting often shrinks the panel (the denser the quilting, the greater the shrinkage), and sometimes the layers shift a little, too. The extra size is always built into my patterns, so no need to cut even larger than the Cutting Instructions given.

Now, on to basting our fabric!

PREPARE FOR BASTING

Before I start basting, I try to make sure that all of my layers are pressed really well. This will help everything lay smoother and you’ll be less likely to get puckers in the fabric when you quilt.

I’d even recommend pressing the batting or Soft and Stable (or other foam stabilizer–unless it’s fusible!) before layering. Both batting and Soft and Stable press well and having the wrinkles pressed out will really help all the layers stay flat.

BASTING

Basting is a way to temporarily hold layers of fabric together. We don’t want the layers to move around while we’re quilting, so we baste them for the best results.

There are many different methods of basting (pins, adhesive spray, sewing long stitches, etc.). I’d recommend trying a few out so you can figure out which method you like best.

I prefer to spray baste smaller projects with Odif 505, but I frequently use safety pins for larger projects.

PREPARE FOR QUILTING

Once I have my layers basted, I choose a side of the panel that I can start most of my quilting lines from and stitch a line along one of the edges (just 1/8″ away from the raw edge) to stabilize the three layers.

Even though we’ve already basted, if you start your machine quilting from that stitched line as much as possible, it will further help keep the layers from shifting.

MARKING QUILTING LINES

When I’m quilting a design that needs guides to follow, I like to use a Hera Marker to mark my lines (it only leaves an impression-not an actual ink mark). The dull side of a butter knife also works great! The impressions on some fabrics and batting/Soft and Stable combinations show up better than others, so don’t get discouraged if the lines are a little hard to see. Sometimes I’ll mark and quilt from the lining side if the Hera Marker works better on that side than the main fabric side.

There are many other ways to make guide lines (air/water erasable pens, strips of tape, etc.) or forgo the lines altogether and choose an organic design that doesn’t need lines to follow. If you’d like to see some of these other method in action, check out the video I shared on my Instagram account HERE.

QUILTING

To keep things easy when I quilt, I use the same thread and needle that I use for all of my general sewing projects (my thread of choice is Aurifil 50 wt and I like to use Organ 90/14 needles).

For machine quilting, I do like to increase my stitch length a little. A standard stitch length on my machine is 2.5 and I like to increase it to about 3.5 for quilting. You can play around with your machine’s settings to see what you prefer.

When quilting on my Juki sewing machine, I use a slim presser foot to quilt smaller projects. The Juki comes with a walking foot, however I’ve found that it doesn’t work really well (one of the machine’s only downfalls) and I prefer to use a regular presser foot. If I’m quilting a larger project then I get out my second machine (a Bernina) and use it with a walking foot. The walking foot can really help feed the layers through at the same speed and avoid puckering. If you have a walking foot, I’d generally recommend using it to quilt, or at least trying it out to see if it works better for quilting.

For this Foxboro Pouch, I’m quilting a crosshatch design, using the 45 degree lines on my ruler. If you’re wanting some additional ideas for easy machine quilting designs, check out the Instagram video I posted HERE.

TRIM THE QUILTED PANEL

When you’re finished quilting, trim your quilted panel to the size listed on page 4 of the Foxboro Pouch pattern.

Those are my tips for Day 1! You can find the video to go along with Day 1 of the sew along on my Instagram account HERE.

Links for products from today’s tips:

Odif 505 Spray (click HERE)
Oliso Iron (click HERE)
Juki TL2000 Sewing Machine (click HERE)
Olfa Ruler (click HERE)
Hera Marker (click HERE)
Organ 90/14 needles (click HERE)

Thanks for sewing along with me!

Kristina

Meet the Foxboro Pouch!

The Foxboro Pouch is a tiny quilted boxy pouch pattern that comes with three size options. These darling little zipper pouches are perfect for keeping those small items contained: spools of thread, binding clips, ear buds, a deck of cards, makeup, jewelry, etc.

The Foxboro Pouch pattern has clear, easy to follow instructions, full color diagrams, and is available as a digital download so you can get sewing right away. You can find the Foxboro pattern in my shop HERE.

And if you’d like a little help or guidance (or just want to join in on the fun!!), I’m hosting a Foxboro Pouch Sew Along the week of January 20th. You can sign up to participate HERE. The sew along itself is completely free to join, but you will need to purchase the pattern to complete the pouch.

If you’d like to participate in the sew along, make sure you’re signed up, have the pattern purchased from my shop , and have all of your supplies gathered by Monday, January 20th. Every morning (for West Hemisphere participants. It will be later in the day for those in earlier time zones), you’ll receive an email with the day’s assignment and any extra tips I have to add. Plus, I’ll be posting a daily video on Instagram to help those of us that are visual learners.

Since we will have people joining from all over the world, there aren’t any live portions of the sew along. You can sew at your own convenience–including working ahead or catching up later in the week if needed. And if you can’t sew with us the week of the 20th, no worries! Still sign up so you can save the emails and refer to them when you’re ready to make the Foxboro Pouch.

I get asked all the time about where to find specific supplies, so I put together a list of items that I have personally purchased and used for sewing zipper pouches like the Foxboro Pouch. Many of the products are linked to Amazon, because that’s an easy source for me to link and for a lot of people to purchase items from. Please feel free to check out other options, too, as you can certainly find the products elsewhere.

Supply Recommendations:

Zippers:

For the Foxboro Pouch, I recommend a standard size #3 nylon zipper (like what you’d find at a big box store like JoAnn Crafts or Hobby Lobby). A nylon zipper is preferable over a metal zipper, as you can sew right over the nylon (plastic) zipper teeth without breaking a needle. My favorite brand of size #3 zippers is YKK, as they are inexpensive and a great quality. YKK zippers come in a variety of lengths, but they can always be cut down to size, so I prefer to purchase longer lengths in a variety of colors to keep on hand then I can cut them down to fit whatever project I am currently working on. I also really like the Sallie Tomato size #3 zippers by the yard. When you purchase a zipper by the yard, it comes in a long coil so you can cut the zipper to size then attach a zipper pull. This is a really efficient way to use zippers, as you cut off the exact amount you need for the project.

YKK Zippers on Amazon and the Etsy shop ZipIt
Sallie Tomato zipper by the yard Size #3 on Amazon and Missouri Star Quilt Co

Quilting material:

I prefer using Soft and Stable in between my layers as I quilt. Soft and Stable is a foam stabilizer that gives more structure and protection than a regular batting. There are other foam stabilizers (like Pellon Flex Foam) that also work well–just make sure you are getting a big enough piece for your project. You can also use regular batting like Warm and Natural or Hobbs Heirloom batting (these pouches are GREAT for using up batting scraps left over from quilts!). You can even use a layer of flannel in between your fabric! The flannel will give the pouch less structure than foam stabilizer or batting, but is a great alternative and keeps the seams less bulky

Soft and Stable: Amazon
Pellon Flex Foam: Amazon. (Pellon Flex Foam comes in 20″ width, so make sure it’s big enough for your project! Also, Pellon Flex Foam has fusible options–I prefer the non-fusible versions, but the fusible work well, too).

Other Sewing Supplies:

Hera Marker for marking straight quilting lines: Amazon
Wonder Binding Clips. (I use these ALL the time to hold things in place while I sew): Amazon
Odif 505 Basting Spray: my preferred method for basting small projects like zipper pouches. Amazon link HERE.

Please let me know if you have any other requests for supply recommendations. You can always look at my Amazon Favorites page HERE for items that I have purchased and use regularly.

Happy sewing!

-Kristina

It seems like everything that I’ve been sewing lately has been tiny. I guess I’m just really enjoying the fast and easy projects lately! Today, I’m sharing a new tutorial for you: the Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch!

These little pouches sure are tiny, but they are perfect for holding lip balm, hair ties, small earphones, or loose change and bills.

You can quickly make one of your own (or to give as a gift!) with just a few supplies! Let’s get going on the tutorial:

Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch

Supply Requirements:
Fabric: (4) 5″ x 5″ squares + (1) 1 1/2″ x 3″ strip
Fusible Interfacing (optional): (2) 4 3/4″ x 4 3/4″ squares
Zipper: 8″ or longer zipper (a longer zipper can always be cut down). I recommend a standard size #3 nylon (plastic teeth) zipper
Hardware (optional): 1/2″ D ring or 1/2″ swivel hook for hang tab
Circle Template: You can download and print my 4 1/2″ diameter circle template here: Center Street Quilts Circle Pouch Template, or use a circle ruler or circular object you have at home that is a similar size.

Note: from the fabric requirements, two of the 5″ squares will be for the outside of the zipper pouch (referred to as Main fabric), the other two 5″ squares will be for the inside of the zipper pouch (referred to as the Lining fabric), and the 1 1/2″ x 3″ strip will be for the hang tab.

1. From the (4) 5″ x 5″ squares, pick two to be the Main fabric (outside of the zipper pouch) and two to be the Lining fabric (inside of the zipper pouch). If using fusible interfacing, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the two Main fabric pieces.

2. Take one of the Main fabric squares and one of the Lining fabric squares and cut each in half one way to yield two pieces, each 5″ wide by 2 1/2″.

3. Place the zipper right side up and sandwich it between a 5″ x 2 1/2″ Lining piece on the bottom and a 5″ x 2 1/2″ Main fabric piece on the top, with both fabric pieces facing in toward each other and the zipper. Align the bottom edges as shown below in the photo.

4. Sew the three layers (Lining, zipper, and Main) together along the edge.

5. Flip the Main and Lining fabric pieces away from the zipper (press if needed, but avoid touching the iron to the plastic zipper teeth!) and top stitch along the edge of the fabric to hold it in place and away from the zipper.

6. Repeat with the remaining two 5″ x 2 1/2″ fabric pieces, by placing the zipper right side up sandwiched with the fabric pieces. The Lining will be on the bottom and the Main fabric on the top, both facing in toward the zipper as shown below.

7. Attach the layers together, then flip the Main and Lining away from the zipper and top stitch along the edge of the Main fabric.

8. Place a circle template with a 4 1/2″ diameter on top of the fabric + zipper (you can find my printable template here: Center Street Quilts Circle Pouch Template). Move the zipper pull to the center of the zipper (so it doesn’t get cut off!). Trace the circle template onto the fabric then cut out the circle shape to create the Zipper Circle. As you cut over the zipper teeth, use a pair of utility scissors so as to not dull your fabric scissors.

9. Use the circle template to cut circles from the remaining two 5″ x 5″ fabric squares (one Lining and one Main).

10. Fold the 1 1/2″ x 3″ strip in half the long way and press to make a strip 3/4″ x 3″. Unfold and fold the long sides into the pressed line and press. Refold at original line and top stitch the skinny strip along both long edges.

11. If using a D ring or swivel hook, place it on the hang tab. Fold the hang tab in half to make a loop and place the raw ends at the top, center spot of the Zipper Circle. Attach with a 1/8″ seam.

12. Place the Main fabric circle on top of the Zipper Circle, right sides together, as shown below. Clip or pin to hold into place, then sew around the entire circle with a 1/4″ seam. Backstitch a couple times over the zipper teeth (if the zipper teeth are plastic, you can sew right over them!) to really secure the seam there, as it will be a point of stress when the pouch is turned right side out.

13. Flip the Zipper Circle so the Lining side is up (you will be looking at the wrong side of the zipper. Place the remaining Lining fabric circle piece right sides together on top of the Zipper Circle as shown below.

14. Sew around most of the circle with a 1/4″ seam, leaving about a 2″ opening (to turn the pouch right side out). I like to place the opening on the bottom part of the circle so the opening isn’t across either of the zipper ends or the hang tab.

15. Using the opening, flip the pouch through the hole so the Lining side is facing out. Fold the raw edges at the opening in towards each other and clip or pin in place. Using a spray bottle can make these pieces a bit more pliable and an iron can also be useful to get them to bend the right way.

16. Close the opening either by machine or hand stitching (my preferred method, as it tends to result in a nicer looking finish). Turn the pouch right side out through the zipper so the Main fabric is on the outside. Use a point turner or a blunt stick to get all of the edges turned out nice and sharp (an iron can also help with any wrinkles that formed while turning the pouch right side out).

17. Fill your Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch with your favorite tiniest objects and enjoy!

The Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch can be adjusted in size (just use a different size circle template!), but I’d suggest not going smaller than a 3 1/2″ diameter circle template. Anything smaller gets a bit ridiculous to sew and turn right side out, plus not much would fit in that small of a pouch anyway (although, it sure would be cute!).

Thanks for following along on today’s tutorial! You can watch a short video tutorial of the Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch on my instagram account HERE.

Happy sewing!

Kristina